19th Century Period

Resource 1: National Portrait Gallery, London

This free museum has a plethora of portraits that would be ideal for anyone looking for inspiration in set, prop, makeup, or costume design. Some paintings are over 16 feet tall, and the detail captured is unbelievable.

Added bonus: Online archives which store photos of portraits along with descriptions of sitter and painter. http://www.npg.org.uk

Notations on Early 1800s dress:

• Tall boots, as evidenced in photos of King George IV.
• Continuation of cravats
  
  

  

  Sketch at the National Portrait Gallery, Floor 2, room 17. 07-08-13.  Subject: King George IV's boot.

   
  

  

  National Portrait Gallery Archives, http://www.npg.org.uk. Floor 2, room 17. Accessed from web 07-09-13.  Subject: King George IV.

   

Notations on scenery:

• Ornate furniture
• Lots of big, heavy drapery 

Later in the 1800s it appears that dress changed considerably.

• Instead of tall boots, men's attire moved to top hats, suit jackets/coats with tails, and walking sticks
• The introduction of a sleeker bow tie was born instead of a cravat
• Women continued to wear hats but added muffs
• Women's clothing had simpler lines and was less formal. A fabric with more of a drape and airy quality to it was used instead of tight corsets and plunging necklines.

Sketch at the National Portrait Gallery, Floor 1, room 27. 07-08-13.  Subject: The bow tie.

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Resource 2: Kensington Palace, London

A small percentage of the palace is available to the public.  Areas on display include The King's State Apartments (~1714 through 1760), The Queen's State Apartments (~1603 through 1694), Victoria Revealed (1819 through 1901), and Fashion Rules (1950 through 1980s).  Displays include fashion, architecture, furniture, weaponry, and reenactments of the time.

The official website http://www.hrp.org.uk/KensingtonPalace/  includes information on conservation, fact sheets, and background information on the palace.  The palace also sponsors programme events, such as lectures, for a nominal attendance fee.

Notes on dress for Court:

• Very colorful
• Outfit includes silk/satin trimmed doublet, ruff, and Cape/cloak 



Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13. The Child. 1820.

Notes on dress for Herald:

• Very colorful
• Silk and satin tabard (sleeveless jerkin)
• Coat, waistcoat, breeches of wool with cut steel buttons
• Coat of arms used to cover, protect and identify the wearer

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13. The Herald. 1820.

Note on furniture

• Ornate, even picture frames have scrollwork galore

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, Victoria Revealed. 07-13-13. Portrait of Queen Victoria by Franz Winterhalter. 1856.

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, Victoria Revealed. 07-13-13. Dancing Shoes. ~1840-1861.

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, Victoria Revealed. 07-13-13. Wedding Dress. 1840.

 

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Resource 3: Fashion Museum, Bath

Known as the Museum of Costume until 2007, this museum houses a large collection of dresses, shoes, hats, gloves, and such from the late 16th century until the present day.  Over 30,000 objects have been cataloged and are available to be searched in the Collection Search on the official Fashion Museum's website, http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk.  

Many pieces in the museum's collection has information on material used, techniques, creation date, and creation place. The only problem with this online database is that it is for past collections and permanent collections.  Any current temporary collection on display has not yet been cataloged.

Men's Fashion

• Top hats were the usual wear for business and were made from a very fine silk
• Special opera hats covered with black corded silk could be collapsed for storage in the theatre
• Bowler hats were introduced for informal wear in the 1860s
• Strict menswear etiquette
• Morning coat worn with black buttoned boots, top hat and grey gloves for work
• Tweet suit worn with felt bowler, brown boots and tan gloves
• Most men changed in the evening

Women's Fashion

• 1820s and 1830s it became especially decorative and pretty and more colorful
• Wasitline dropped to natural level, skirts became much fuller than the previous decade
• Sleeves were little puff sleeves in the 1820s, huge "leg-o-mutton" sleeves in the 1830s, and the close-fitting styles at the end of the decade
• Lightweight fabrics, including shimmering gauzes
• Large structured hats elaborately decorated with feathers, ribbons and sometimes ornamental fruit and flowers in the 1820s
• Bonnets, a more modest style, became fashionable at the end of the 1830s
• Married women also wore white cotton muslin caps
• Hats were made of straw
• In the 1850s the crinoline was invented; cage-like structure of graduated hoops. First made of cane and whalebone.
• Crinolines were cheap, so they were worn by women of all backgrounds.
• Skirts became more and more oversized, bodices became tighter
• Extreme lacing; some waists were pulled in to measure under 20 inches.
• Corsets were worn with a camisole
• In the mid 1870s, the bustle was invented
• 1870s the skirts pulled back against the legs, giving a slim-line silhouette
• "Princess line" style of dress develops.
• Parasols were an important part of a lady's attire-many different styles available, including lace-trimmed
• Women wore boots for walking and took delicate indoor slippers with them
• Shoes were made of silk or fabric up until the 1890s
• Women's shoes featured heels again in the latter part of the 19th century

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Top Hats and Bowler Hats. 1860.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Romantic Movement fabric. 1825.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Dropped Waistline and Leg of Mutton Sleeves. 1830s.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Bonnets. Late 1830s.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Bustles and Tiny Waists. 1870s.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Lace Trimmed Parasols. 1870s.

Photo taken at The Fashion Museum, Bath. 07-18-13. Boots and Fitted Dress. 1888.

 

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Resource 4: St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland

This Roman Catholic church was built between 1841 and 1847 and features architecture of the Greek Revival period, as evidenced by the portico, corinthian columns, pediment, and statuary.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Pediment, Statues and Columns. 1847.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Pediment, Statues and Columns. 1847.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Sanctuary. 1847.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Ceiling with Lunette Windows. 1847.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Interior Walls. 1847.

Photo taken at St. Audeon's Catholic Church; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Organ Above Entrance & Ceiling with Lunette Windows. 1847.

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Resource 5: Saint Patrick's Cathedral; Dublin, Ireland

This remains the largest Cathedral in the country.  It's a fine example of Gothic architecture.  Saint Patrick's also has large bells in the belltower, which is now off-limits to visitors.  More information can be found at http://www.stpatrickscathedral.ie/index.aspx.

Photo taken at Saint Patrick's Cathedral; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Keys & Felt Top Hat. 19th Century.

 

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Resource 6: Book Period Style for the Theatre, by Douglas A. Russell

This book is the most useful, well-laid out book that covers a span of time from the ancient world all the way up to the modern world. Sections within each time period include costuming and accessories, acting and movement, directing information, information on the theatre itself, world/history events that were going on at the time, art and sculpture, how to design for that time, and specific plays of the time.

General 19th Century Information:

• Fashion started to change faster and faster: Romantic, Crinoline/Early Victorian Period, Late Victorian Period/Bustle Period, and Early Modern/End of the Century
• Clothes are able to be manufactured faster with the invention of the first sewing machine in 1830

19th Century Architecture & Furniture:

• Furniture was lost under padded fabric, tassels, and fringe
• Late 19th Century had an emphasis on collecting artifacts, memorabilia, and showcasing photos and memories 

19th Century Costumes & Accessories:

• Petticoat is back, as is the corset
• Bigger poufs for sleeves, Leg-o-mutton sleeves
• Hourglass shape for both men and women: tiny waist, big bottom
• Ruffles, applique, trimming, ruching are in style
• Skirt lengthened to the floor, slight train
• Men's trousers were padded at the hip 
• Big hairdos and bonnets for women
• Men smoked cigars and pipes regularly
• Late 19th century means bustles for women, worn higher on the waist
• Sack Jacket: Loose, unfitted, boxy suit coat

 19th Century Manners & Movements:

• Graceful movement, not stiff
• At all times the young lady was "to appear impervious to the unbecoming effects of exertion or emotion.  Any hard breathing, flushing with heat, or looking blue with cold were to be avoided."
• While sitting, ladies should sink into a chair with grace and ease of manner.
• Steps should be short and gentle, the foot was not to be thrown out.  The ideal was to walk with a head held high and the chest expanded.
• Men stood with both legs straight or with one knee slightly relaxed
• Men should not hurry through the streets, as it is a "mark of vulgarity"
• Men could cross their legs but could not hug his knees or his toes
• Men could straddle a chair in the bachelor's room, but not in a lady's drawing room