18th Century Period

Resource 1: National Portrait Gallery, London

This free museum has a plethora of portraits that would be ideal for anyone looking for inspiration in set, prop, makeup, or costume design. Some paintings are over 16 feet tall, and the detail captured is unbelievable.

Added bonus: Online archives which store photos of portraits along with descriptions of sitter and painter. http://www.npg.org.uk

Things to note on the 1700s:
The biggest change noted was the addition of big wigs  and scarves (cravats) for men.

Sketch at the National Portrait Gallery, Floor 2, room 11. 07-08-13. 
Of course the ornamental aspect continued for royalty. Commoners and clergy had a much simpler attire.

Notations on clergy:
  • Black cloak/robe
  • Black underclothes
  • Black sash/cumberbund of sorts
  • White neck tie, stiff/starched. 
Sketch at the National Portrait Gallery, Floor 2, room 11. 07-08-13.  Subject: John Wesley, founder of Methodist Movement.  
National Portrait Gallery Archives, http://www.npg.org.uk. Floor 2, room 11. Accessed from web 07-09-13.  Subject: John Wesley, founder of Methodist Movement.   

Notations on hairstyles and hats:
  • Men had big wigs but as time progressed through the 1700s, mens' wigs appeared to be more polished. Instead of hair cascading down, it was more rolled at the sides and then secured in a ponytail in the back (George Washington comes to mind).
  • Hats were big for men.  Style was that of a boat-like looking hat (see sketch below).
  • Cravats
  • Women had big hair and big hats. If not a wig, then hair was teased up at least a foot off the woman's head. Hats were laced on top of the hair, adding at least another foot of height.
Sketch at the National Portrait Gallery, Floor 2, room 12. 07-08-13.  Subject: Big hair and hats.

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Resource 2: Kensington Palace, London

A small percentage of the palace is available to the public.  Areas on display include The King's State Apartments (~1714 through 1760), The Queen's State Apartments (~1603 through 1694), Victoria Revealed (1819 through 1901), and Fashion Rules (1950 through 1980s).  Displays include fashion, architecture, furniture, weaponry, and reenactments of the time.

The official website http://www.hrp.org.uk/KensingtonPalace/  includes information on conservation, fact sheets, and background information on the palace.  The palace also sponsors programme events, such as lectures, for a nominal attendance fee.

Notes on Dress for Royalty:
Shoe buckles were made from paste set in copper
Coronation robes were made of silk velvet, trimmed with gold lace
Cape and lining, ermine (white fur trim)

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  The King's Coronation Outfit. 1761.

Notes on Upper Class Dress:

Women 
  • Lappet (lace) sleeves with ruffles
  • Silk brocade dress with form fitted corset type top
  • Silk brocade shoes with buckles made from silver alloy from paste set in copper 
  • Other dresses made from cotton with embroidered details and stain edging

Men
  • Cravats
  • Silk brocade overcoat, vest, and pants with lace trim, sequins and metal foil
  • Ruffled sleeves
  • Patent leather shoes with buckles made from silver alloy from paste set in copper

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  The Courtier & the Lady of the Court. 1750-1770.
Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  The Courtier's Shoes. 1750-1770.
Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  The Politician's Wife. 1780.

Notes on Furniture
  • Cabriole design (legs shaped in two curves)
  • Cabriole design is often associated with bun or the "ball and claw" foot design
  • Ornate carvings

Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The King's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  King's Chair. 18th century.





Photo taken at Kensington Palace, The Queen's State Apartments. 07-13-13.  Bench. 18th century.

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Resource 2: Tower of London, London

This Medieval Palace community is surrounded by walls and a moat.  Dating back to William the Conqueror in 1070 or so, The White Tower was the first portion to be built, completed in 1100. Henry III added two new tours in the early 1200s, and by 1238, he built massive walls on the north, east and western sides, along with nine new tours and a moat. King Edward I (1272-1307) transformed the Palace by adding a second wall to fortify the Palace.  In 1533, Henry VIII commissioned the addition of lodgings. In 1774, a new gate and drawbridge were created at the east of the outer southern wall.
William the Conqueror (1066-87) that the history of the Tower of London begins. - See more at: http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/sightsandstories/buildinghistory/normanbeginnings#sthash.79zy8H15.dpuf
William the Conqueror (1066-87) that the history of the Tower of London begins. - See more at: http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/sightsandstories/buildinghistory/normanbeginnings#sthash.79zy8H15.dpuf
William the Conqueror (1066-87) that the history of the Tower of London begins. - See more at: http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/sightsandstories/buildinghistory/normanbeginnings#sthash.79zy8H15.dpuf
William the Conqueror (1066-87) that the history of the Tower of London begins. - See more at: http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/sightsandstories/buildinghistory/normanbeginnings#sthash.79zy8H15.dpuf
William the Conqueror (1066-87) that the history of the Tower of London begins. - See more at: http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/sightsandstories/buildinghistory/normanbeginnings#sthash.79zy8H15.dpuf

Aside from visiting the Tower, the official website http://www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/ showcases additional histories of the Tower and the people associated with it.  There is also a webpage devoted to further reading about the tower, as well as a timeline of events at the Tower and archives of five different organizations that are part of the history of the palace, prison, and fortress.

This is an excellent resource for architecture, weaponry, dress, and furniture of the time.



Photo taken at Tower of London, The White Tower. 07-14-13.  Grand Storehouse Keys. 1700.


Photo taken at Tower of London, The White Tower. 07-14-13.  Artillery at the Tower. 1748.

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Resource 3: Saint Patrick's Cathedral; Dublin, Ireland

This remains the largest Cathedral in the country.  It's a fine example of Gothic architecture.  Saint Patrick's also has large bells in the belltower, which is now off-limits to visitors.  More information can be found at http://www.stpatrickscathedral.ie/index.aspx.

 

Photo taken at Saint Patrick's Cathedral; Dublin, Ireland. 07-27-13. Handel's Messiah. 1741.

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Resource 4: Book Period Style for the Theatre, by Douglas A. Russell

This book is the most useful, well-laid out book that covers a span of time from the ancient world all the way up to the modern world. Sections within each time period include costuming and accessories, acting and movement, directing information, information on the theatre itself, world/history events that were going on at the time, art and sculpture, how to design for that time, and specific plays of the time.
General 18th Century Info:
  • Georgian Period because of King George
  • Rococo art and architectural style
  • Neoclassic= New classics (back to Greek/Roman)
  • In costuming, known as the transition or Empire Period because of Napoleon 
  • Light, delicate, opulent, feminine, romantic, airy
 *This is the AGE of ENLIGHTENMENT* 


Architecture:
  • Delicate, curvy lines
  • Asymmetry/irregular edges
  • Forms based in nature
  • Lots of pastels, silvers/golds and mirrors
  • Furniture becomes smaller and lighter 
  • Rounded arches, cornices, pillars
  • Overlaid with swags, finials and shells
  • Chairs lacked arms
 Costuming & Accessories: 
  • Undress: Lounging clothes; Dress: daytime clothes; Full Dress: Formal or court clothes
  • Ditto suit: Suit that included matching coat, waistcoat and breeches
  • Tricorne: Black felt cocked hat
  • Eschelles: Bows down front of dress
  • Engageants: Two or three layers of ruffles at the edge of sleeves
  • Men's wigs were powdered and controlled; had a "queue", a ponytail tied with a ribbon
  • Polonaise Dress (Little Bo Peep Look): Pastoral folk overgown drawn up 
  • Calash: Bonnet/covered wagon hat with boned hood to cover hair
  • Women had stiffly boned bodices 
  • Women's dresses had many floral patterns and motifs to complement the garden setting; textures included satin, velvet and flowered brocade.
  • Women had very high, complex, powdered hairdos
  • Use of garlands, flounces, ribbons and floral decoration increased

Manners & Movement:
  • Disciplined movement of the body
  • Dancing master was hired by all families to tutor their young in the physical graces demanded in society: Bowing, sitting, standing, walking, embracing, removing the hat, etc.
  • Gentlemen should hold head erect without stiffness, chest expanded, back straight and light, knees flexible, feet turned out
  • Arms never hung loosely at the side of the body
  • Cuff and cravat were flicked with the handkerchief since snuff stains were difficult to remove if they settled on the clothing
  • Because of bodices, women sat stiffly upright

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